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Sorry for the delay folks! Starting with post 17, the posts are going to become more abbreviated due to me not having the time to continue including the same level of detail as the posts before that. But don’t you worry, you’ll still have many photos!

18: Baltic

From Manchester, England I fly to Riga, Latvia where my brother lives. He picks me up at the airport at 10:00pm and we are up until 2:00am (midnight in Manchester since Latvia is two hours ahead). Because we are so far north (56.95 degrees) and it is approaching the summer solstice, the sun barely sets. By about 11:30pm it is out of sight and the sky is still light, maintaining a similar level of brightness until about 4:00am when the sun again appears. Good luck sleeping.

View from my brother’s balcony at 11:30pm.

This post covers Saturday, June 13 to Tuesday, June 30, 2015 (18 days). The beginning will include an overview.

During my 18 days in the Baltic Countries of Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania, I spend the majority of my time in each of the capitals, taking three-day excursions to each of Tallinn, Estonia and Vilnius, Lithuania. I travel by bus to each of these cities and the buses are surprisingly nice with free Wi-Fi, that was reasonably fast, and an espresso machine that you can use as much as you wish.

For the summer solstice, we spend two nights in the countryside near Sigulda, located about 40 miles (65 km) northeast of Riga. The summer solstice festival here is huge! It is two days, the day with the shortest night followed by the longest day and they are called Līgo and Jāņi. Although the shortest night is usually on June 21 or 22, the public holidays are always on June 23 and 24.

In general, there are parks and public spaces throughout all of the cities and this stands out to me more than it has in most other cities where I have been. Everywhere is very clean and nice. Costs, depending on the item, are between 30-50% less than the UK: good on the budget!

The remainder of this post has four sections: 1) Tallinn, 2) Vilnius, 3) Riga, and 4) the summer solstice. My time spent in Riga was spread out but I have included it all in one section.

Tallinn, Estonia

In Tallinn, Estonia I am at 59.44 degrees north, which still is not as far north as where I started my cycling in the Shetland Islands of Scotland. When I arrive in Tallinn, I mean to go to a pizza restaurant, but end up at what seems to be a traditional Estonian restaurant. None of the staff speak English, and the hardest item to order was a glass of water. Another customer had to translate for me.

I enter the old town area through one of the original gates where the towers still stand. For the rest of the day I just walk around town looking at the very old buildings. The town is beautiful and I love it already.

The towers that remain from one of the gates to the city.

I stand in the large public square surrounded by restaurants with open-air seating. I have no idea what any of them serve, or what ethnicity they are, except for Mad Murphy's Irish Pub. I tend to go with local cuisine when I travel but I don't really want to go and ask, "Is this local cuisine?" So I go for it and just pick one.

I start off my second day by seeing Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, just walking around it on the outside. Then I go to St. Mary's Cathedral and take the 140 steps in a narrow spiral staircase to reach the bell tower, which has three massive bells. St. Mary’s Cathedral was in existence in 1219 when Tallinn was invaded.

View from the bell tower of St. Mary's Cathedral looking south towards Alexander Nevsky Cathedral.

On my third day, I go to the Niguliste Museum located in St Nicholas’ Church, with one of the most interesting features being that in areas the floor are the very tombstones of people buried there. St Nicholas’ Church was originally built in the early 1200s. It was destroyed in World War II but has now been rebuilt.

In the morning of the last day, I go to Town Hall and see the gallery of art. There are paintings that are 400 years old with realistic looking fruit, and I might admit that it was some art that impressed.

Photo Gallery – Tallinn, Estonia

Vilnius, Lithuania

I arrive into town in the evening and at the bus station buy a kebab wrap to go before walking through the old town to where I am staying. The walking route includes a road that goes right through a building.

I spend the evening in a small square where a musician is playing and has gathered quite the crowd of people sitting around the square.

In the morning of my second day, I switch accommodation because where I had booked was not very good. The new place I am staying is in a building that was originally part of a monastery built in the 15th century and it is safe to say that this is the oldest building I have ever stayed in. The building has settled a bit over the years (hundreds of them), so the floors are slightly unlevel in areas, but I like the character. From my window I have a view of St. Anne's church.

I walk through the Bernadine Park and its gardens, which is bordered by the Vilnia River that meanders through the city.

From there I go through another park and into Cathedral Square where there is Vilnius Cathedral and the belfry (bell tower) that stands separate from the cathedral. The original cathedral was built starting in 1251, with the current cathedral built between 1779-1783. The original year of construction of the belfry is unknown, although it is known that it had repairs in 1522.

The cathedral is magnificent inside, in one of the side chapels I spend 10 minutes just sitting, continuously finding more details in the carvings, painting, and other artwork. And I could easily spend more time appreciating this single room.

To go to the top of the belfry, I first go up a set of original stone stairs that are within the wall of the tower and curve around the tower as I ascend.

From a lower level, looking up through a glass section of the ceiling to the internal wood structure above.

I go up another set of stone stairs within the tower wall until I come to some modern metal stairs that then lead to original wooden stairs, which have modern handrails now added for safety. There are five sets of original wooden stairs with modern platforms at each level.

The original wooden structure in the belfry.

The original wooden stairs going up and up.

At 4:00pm I am in the belfry when one of the bells ring. Then at 4:15pm another bell chimes for the quarter hour. I am 10 feet (3 meters) away and it scares the crap out of me!

The belfry with its very old wooden structure and bells is definitely one of the coolest towers I have ever been in.

On Castle Hill, there is a tower remaining that now contains a museum that includes armor from the 14th, 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries (I’m not sure whey there was none from the 15th century!).

View from the top of the tower on Castle Hill.

I walk down from Castle Hill to the Vilnia River and walk alongside it, on the side opposite the gardens. I see that the largest fountain in the park is flowing and spraying to music. From the river I go up to Three Crosses Hill where there is the monument of the same name. From there I go nearby to Stalo Hill (Table Hill).

The next day I am at the National Museum. There is a krater (large vase used for wine and water) from Italy from the 4th century BC, flint tools and stone axe heads from the 2nd millennium BC, silver bars used for currency from the 13th century, a crossbow and arrow tips from the 14th century, and a sleigh from the mid 18th century.

The Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania National Museum was incredible. In the basement of the current palace are the ruins of the original palace, which was built upon ruins of the original castle. The ruins at this level are primarily of the cellars. The columns and structure of the existing building are designed around the ruins, it is all quite beautiful how it fits together. From what they found through excavation, they know the original castle was three stories. Amongst layers of ash are three layers of different style floor tiles that would have been from each story. They believe that part of the building collapsed and burned due to an explosion. The castle palace had 'running' water brought in from the river through wooden pipes and there was also a sewer line built of larger wooden pipes, which all seems quite advanced for the 12th century.

In the Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania National Museum.

The upper floors of the museum have excavated artifacts, medieval armor and weapons, furniture, and extremely large hanging tapestries. From upstairs, the museum continues and leads you back downstairs to the level of the cellars, but the area is not connected to the beginning of the museum. The base of the cellars here are original and then the entirety has been rebuilt with a continuous arched ceiling starting at the floor, creating tunnel-shaped cellars, just like the originals. In these cellars are the royal jewels including the crowns.

At the Museum of Church Heritage there are gold and silver pieces that ranger between 400 to 700 years old, along with articles of clothing over 200 years old.

I return to Vilnius Cathedral for a tour of the crypt where excavations were done 30 years ago to discover the history of the reconstructions of the cathedral. It was rebuilt many times and the low elevation prompted it to erosion. The current cathedral is 10 feet (3 meters) higher than the original and there are many layers of floors that were discovered

At the end of 18th century the crypt was sealed when the current cathedral was built, enclosing the remains of 350 people. In 1931 the area around the cathedral flooded. It took some time for the area to drain and when it did, the cathedral walls started to crack due to ground settling. Later when the crypt was ‘rediscovered,’ what was found was layers of bones amongst rotted coffins. The coffins had floated, moved about, and rotted during an unknown number of floods. There is an area dug out that shows the different layers indicating more than one flood within the crypt. Of the 350 people’s remains, only three could positively be identified. That is because of what managed to still be with them to identify them as kings and queens. They are now in new coffins in the crypt with their crowns on top.

A sarcophagus was made for the body of a duke that died 500 years prior, but they never found his remains upon excavation. Documents record him being buried here, so maybe he is still in a hidden area of the crypt, or was buried elsewhere to hide him, or his royal items were stolen by tomb raiders so he was not able to be identified and he is now reburied in the common area with the remains of all the others.

Coffins have again been placed in the crypt in modern times, but the last was in 1991, but then later moved elsewhere.

I have a pickled cucumber soup as part of my dinner, just to try it and see what it is like because it is not normally the type of item I would order. It was about what you would expect, but it was good and I liked it, although it doesn't have the potential of becoming a favorite.

The day I leave is Sunday so I attend mass at St Anne’s church and then head to the bus station for an 11:15am departure.

Photo Gallery – Vilnius, Lithuania

Riga, Latvia

We walk by the House of Blackheads, which was originally built in the early 1300s by a guild of merchants called the Brotherhood of Blackheads. The building was destroyed in a bombing by the Germans in 1941 and then the remains were demolished by the Soviets in 1948. The current building was reconstructed between 1995 and 1999 and is currently the office to the President of Latvia.

I learn at the grocery store that you don't hand your money directly to the cashier, you set it on the counter, specifically on a tray meant for it. And then they put your change there for you to pick up, rather than handing it directly to you. This is the first I have seen this while traveling.

I go and see the Victory Memorial to Soviet Army, which was erected in 1985 to commemorate the Soviet Army's victory over Nazi Germany in World War II. It consists of an obelisk that is 79 meters (259 feet) tall and two groups of sculptures. It is not only interesting to me that there is a Soviet memorial here considering the country’s whole history, but it is in fact controversial amongst those who live here.

Up close at the obelisk of the Victory Memorial to Soviet Army.

One day I try a garlic beer, which I strongly disrecommend, even if you think you ‘love’ garlic.

Another day we go to lunch at a restaurant owned by man from Mercer Island, Washington. His grandparents are from Latvia and he now lives here. One of the beers we drink, which is brewed here, contains hops from Washington.

EuroPride is hosted in Riga for 2015. With free tickets we go to the concert that was part of the larger event. It was mostly like any other concert. My thoughts on sharing my thoughts about homosexuality: this is a travel narrative.

I was fortunate to be able to take a tour of the U.S. Embassy in Riga, which has a relatively new location in the city, having been completed in 2011. There is a lot of art in the embassy, both from local and U.S. artists. The most interesting thing I learn is that the presence of marines at embassies has been historically to ensure that classified information stay protected. Their job was internal to the embassy and about the security of information, not the protection of personnel. So what is portrayed in most films has been inaccurate. It has not been until recent years that marines’ responsibilities have expanded to outside of the embassy.

I visit St Peter's Church, which is first mentioned in records in 1209. I go up in the high steeple and have amazing views of the city.

Looking southwest from the steeple of St Peter’s Church.

Looking northwest from the steeple of St Peter’s Church.

Riga is hosting the 8th Nordic and Baltic Choral Festival at Mežaparks, located 5 miles (8 km) north of the city center, so I attend with some of my brother’s friends. The festival started in 1995, then also being hosted in Riga. From 8 countries there are 202 choirs for a total of 6,400 singers at the final event that brings the festival to a close. As the event begins, the singers from each country enter to their own song and choreographed movement. I wouldn’t ordinarily go out of my way to see a choir, but it was really good. It was better than good: it was great.

My brother and I go to an open-air market that has a large portion of the vendors inside four large hangars that originally held zeppelins.

The Museum of the History of Riga and Navigation is very nice. There are dozens of different units for weights and measures dating back to the 14th century, which I realize wouldn’t be interesting to most, but I thought it was all pretty incredible, and that all those units of the past changed and none of them are what we use now. In the 16th to 17th centuries, money forgers had their hands cut off. There is a real hand that had been cut off of a money forger on display in a case. I was not expecting that.

Līgo and Jāņi (summer solstice holidays)

In the countryside near Sigulda.

Just after 9:30pm, a group of us leave from where we are staying in the countryside. On foot. One leads the way and the rest of us follow. After following a path along the edge of a field, we enter into the woods.

Only one of us knows the way to where we are going. We begin to hear music. It becomes louder as we continue and soon we can see lights. We are soon merging with other people and start heading up steep, wooden staircases built into the hillside. Up we go until we reach the ruins of a castle.

There is a band playing, people dancing, a bonfire burning, and lights from the stage shining out onto the trees within the castle grounds. The bonfire is built to burn from the top down and sized so that it will burn low enough to jump over by the time the sun starts to rise. We’re not supposed to go to sleep until the sun rises, that’s part of celebrating the solstice here.

But the bonfire isn’t going to burn low enough to jump over by the time the sun rises. It is raining. Pouring. Down. Rain. Most people are soaked. People dancing are slipping on the wet boards of the dance area. What should have been an event for thousands only has a few hundred. The bonfire was built to burn at a certain pace when not in the pouring down rain. Not all happens as it is meant to be!

We depart the castle. Trekking back the hour or so to where we are staying. Trekking in the pouring down rain. There is also supposed to be naked running through fields as the sun comes up, but that isn’t looking so likely to happen by anyone this year.

The rain lets up. Back at the place we are staying, we free ourselves from wet clothes. Three of us head outside. It’s 4:00am. We jump in the nearby pond and have a short swim. The cloud-covered skies challenge the fact of the sun rising. We briefly sit in the sauna. It’s past 5:00am, the sun has risen, and it starts raining again, heavy, as I fall asleep.

Photo Gallery – Riga, Latvia and Summer Solstice in Sigulda

17: South of the Border

Sorry for the delay folks! I’ve been traveling at a quick pace without time to produce a new post. Also at this time, the posts are going to become more abbreviated due to me not having the time to continue including the same level of detail as the posts have had to date. But don’t you worry, you’ll still have many photos!

Wednesday, June 3, 2015

This day continued from last post.

My task is complete, but my day is not done. I’m not going to spend the night on the border of Scotland and England.

I continue cycling south into England and at 7:49pm arrive to my friend Steve’s home in Carlisle. I know Steve from my first trip to Ireland in 2005. He is now married to Claire.

Thursday, June 4, 2015

After all that cycling, I slept in until noon. Then the rest of the day was basically a rest day.

Friday, June 5, 2015

In the evening, Steve, Claire, and I head of out town, stopping for dinner at a pub on the way, and then arrive for the night at a bed and breakfast near Lake District National Park.

Saturday, June 6, 2015

At 8:00am we have breakfast and then head out. As we drive on the country roads, we encounter some cows that we have to go around.

We park at our destination and are on the trail at 10:45am. As we start our hike, there are already winds of 20-25 mph (32-40 km/h) with gusts of 30 mph (48 km/h). This is Steve and Claire’s first significant hike, what they like to call ‘hill walking’ around here.

The trail begins through a pasture. We're going generally uphill in the wind and then come into a valley that shelters us and there is nearly no wind. About half way up the valley we begin to enter the clouds.

The trail begins through these pastures.

About three-fourths of the way up the valley we take a right where the trail splits to take what is supposed to be a more scenic route and slightly more challenging. We have started on the easiest route and are making good time. Now if we had thought about it, a more scenic route in the clouds didn't make a lot of sense. At the top of the valley it becomes steeper and the trail turns to dirt mixed with gravel, which wouldn't have been our first choice. At the end of that terrain it becomes steeper and primarily rock, which requires us to climb with our hands. I didn't personally mind but I knew that with Steve and Claire being first time hill walkers that they did.

Passing through steep, rocky terrain and coming into the clouds.

After we make it through the segment of rock, we arrive upon a ridge and are in the wind again, now 25-30 mph (40-48 km/h) winds. With the clouds limiting the distance we can see, it takes a little bit of route finding work. The terrain is also a bit different than anything I had ever seen before, rocks surrounded by moss as far as we can see.

Just a bit of an unwelcome scramble for my hill walking companions.

Since it is quite gradual at this point, there isn't a defined trail because people have obviously just spread out and a common path has never been defined, so that didn’t help with the route finding. There are areas where you can see that the rocks have been walked over repeatedly, and the lichen is worn away.

There are occasionally 'abbreviated cairns' with just one or two rocks on top of another, indicating the way. We eventually merge with the trail that was the continuation of the easiest route and head to the summit. After a short distance we are at the top. The top of England! Welcome to Scafell Pike, the highest peak in England.

After 20 minutes at the top we head down at 1:20pm. The plan is to take the easiest route all the way back down, we definitely don't want to climb back down the rock we climbed up on the ‘scenic’ option. After heading down off the summit, we head right. Initially what we thought was the trail was not, so we went further and found the route indicated by very large cairns.

After about 25 minutes or so, I am pretty sure we are not on the correct route because it would have had in view by now the valley we came up, and there wouldn't be a massive cliff on our left that is clearly not indicated by the topographical lines on our map. Although this is much more beautiful than the way we came up, it looks like we have been deceived in the clouds for where we began to come down. We are experiencing the strongest winds of the day with a steady fluctuation of 35-40 mph (56-64 km/h) with gusts reaching 45 mph (72 km/h). It isn't the most pleasant and is definitely blowing us off balance at times, so also not particularly safe.

Unfortunately we only have a map of our route and it doesn't show others or the topography of the rest of the mountain. We've seen people ahead of us and they came up the same way we did, so in our minds that really made us think we were on the intended route. We know at this point we don't want to go back up to find our intended route. The route we are on is way more beautiful than the one we came up. We can hitchhike or somehow find a taxi back to our vehicle, and the people ahead of us either also mistakenly have ended up on this route, or they planned it and have left vehicles at both trailheads, so maybe we can catch a ride back with them, if there is room for three more.

I catch up with them and they say this route ends back at the same place. We apparently headed right too soon and came down the back of the mountain, taking a route that is much longer.

Right where I have caught up to them is a section we have to climb down with our hands, I know Steve and Claire won't be super excited when they catch up.

The down climb that nobody was super excited about.

As we descend further and further, the winds reduce more and more and it becomes more pleasant. Our route also merges with another route as we continue down through a valley with a river flowing down the middle.

Coming down a mountain on another route than you intended is pretty bad. Although with how beautiful it is, it has turned out to be the best mistake I have ever made in the outdoors. It ends up being better than our intended plan.

Merging trails and joining other hill walkers, who took even a different way down.

At 4:15pm we are back to where we started, and thankful we didn’t need to hitchhike to make it there.

And with the successful summit of Scafell Pike, that makes all four of the highest in each country of the United Kingdom! Northern Ireland: Slieve Donard, Wales: Snowdon, Scotland: Ben Nevis, England: Scafell Pike.

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Photo Gallery – Scafell Pike

Sunday, June 7, 2015

We go to church in the morning.

In the afternoon, Steve and I go on a countryside drive and end up at a section of Hadrian's Wall. The wall was built by the Romans starting in 122 AD, stretched 80 Roman Miles (73 miles / 117.5 km), and the purpose was perhaps to separate the Romans from the ‘barbarians.’

Photo Gallery – Hadrian’s Wall

Monday, June 8, 2015

At 1:05pm, I set off on my bike, with all my gear packed again into my pannier bags. After 2 miles (3.2 km) I am at the train station and after a short wait board the train with my bike. After two hours I depart the train in Manchester.

I bike 5 miles (8 km) to a pub near my friends’ home to wait until they are home from work.

Rovel finds me at the pub and it is the first time we have met in person. Caroline, who I met for lunch in Northern Ireland, married Rovel this past November. We head to their apartment and Caroline arrives home after not too long.

Tuesday, June 9, 2015

For dinner we go out to a restaurant. It doesn’t serve beer, but it is completely okay to go buy beer and bring it back to the restaurant. I have never heard of anywhere that would be okay in America!

Wednesday, June 10, 2015

In the afternoon, Caroline and I go to Lyme Park where we walk around seeing a handful of different sites and many Red Deer.

Thursday, June 11, 2015

At 1:45am, as I'm struggling to stay asleep, I hear air begin to hiss. Oh no, it's coming from the air mattress I’m sleeping on. I hear it on the side where my head is, which is also the side with the valve, and feel around in the dark to find the air. I can't. I put on my glasses and with the flashlight from my phone, try to find it. I still can't. The sound is quite a bit of air so after a while I find it strange that the mattress isn't going down at all. Then there also seems to be some other small noises from the window. What on earth? Then I realize it is my bike that is against that wall, and the air is coming from the tire, and the other small noises are the tire changing shape and the bike slowly moving against the wall. I watch the bike slowly lower itself as the rear tire loses all its air. That's crazy! The patch I installed one week ago, rode into England on, and just rode in Manchester on, just now decides to come loose.

I leave Manchester on my bike just after 2:00pm. I am primarily on National Cycling Network Route 62, which definitely doesn't have road bikes in mind. The route is primarily on fine gravel paths and dirt trails with a large portion along the Manchester Ship Canal. The dirt portion I am used to, except for the fact that they have a new gate type for me here!

You cannot be sitting on your seat and pass through. I have to unclip my shoes, have my butt below the seat height, crouch down, and 'waddle' through. I assume they are for horses and these same trails do have horse signs. There are over 20 sets of these gates so I am continually stopping and starting again. And the efficiency loss of riding on gravel and dirt isn't making my pace happy either.

I come to a point where the signs on the trail indicating NCN 62, don't agree with where Google Maps has it labeled. It is hard to decide which route to take, because the route per Google Maps actually seems nicer.

But then later, Google Maps has me leave the canal trail and go through a narrow pathway between barbwire fences in an industrial area. The path was not much wider than needed for my bike, was overgrown with vegetation, and had several turns that wouldn't be possible while riding. How does Google even know about this?

I arrive into Liverpool just after 5:00pm, having cycled 37 miles (59 km) at a pace of 12.2 mph (19.6 km/h) without taking any breaks. It is faster than I thought I was doing with the terrain and all those gates! Today has been very sunny, I'm keeping my 'Scottish tan' fresh.

I take the train back to Manchester.

Friday, June 12, 2015

For dinner we go to a restaurant called Pie, where they serve meat pies.

Saturday, June 13, 2015

At 2:35pm, we leave the apartment, Caroline driving me to the airport.

16: The Border

Before I left home in March, I had many goodbyes with friends and family. I knew that I would miss my five-year-old niece and two-year-old nephew the most, and was sure I would cry when saying goodbye. And I did. As I held my nephew, he stuck his tongue out to lick the tears on my cheek, an interesting way of saying goodbye. I will never forget that moment.

My niece and nephew are a huge reason why my cycling journey is in raising funds for childhood cancer research. They have never been ill, but they could be just as much as any other child. In addition to starting off this ride by donating $50 on behalf of each of them, I am still in with a pledge of $0.50 per each mile cycled, and we are going to see how many miles that will be. I want you to join me by donating whatever amount you are able!

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Sunday, May 31, 2015

I arrived in Glasgow last night.

Today will be a rest day from cycling. And from gravel trails and tire punctures.

I sleep in until 11:00am, the longest I have slept in since leaving home. This would actually not be uncommon for me at home on a weekend, not going lie. Yesterday reversed the previous four days of rest.

I take a slow morning, even having a hot shower simply because it feels good since I am sore.

In the afternoon, I take the bus across town to the Gibson Street Gala, a music and art festival. It is of pretty significant size with the streets blocked off.

From there I go to a nearby church, but it is closed for the evening service today. I am directed to another church, which started at the same time, so once I arrive it has already begun. Afterward I head to dinner on a bus.

I almost walk out from dinner without paying. The service is so bad I can't even pay! I didn't receive the bill for quite a while so I walk up to the register to pay. The waitress acts too busy and directs me to pay at the bar. Then at the bar I have to wait for everyone already there to get drinks! I give them an ultimatum of walking out right then, and then they let me pay.

I’ve been having a cold that started on Thursday in Edinburgh, it has become exponentially worse throughout today. I’m in bed at 11:20pm.

Monday, June 1, 2015

I wake at 8:00am. My sinuses are very clogged. I blow my nose and all sorts of nasty comes out, the amount that no one can really understand how it can all be in there. I’m feeling so tired. I sleep until 10:30am, but I meant to be up for the day before this.

In the afternoon I head out by bus. My first stop is the Riverside Museum, which is focused around transportation. There is a three-masted tall ship in the harbour, measuring 245 feet (75 meters) that was built in 1896. Inside the museum are full-size train cars, dozens of old cars (Rolls Royce Phantom II from 1931), full size buses and trolleys, dozens of motorcycles, horse drawn carriages, bicycles (even a 4-person bike), a motorized bicycle from 1903, a subway car, a fire engine from 1906, fire trucks from the 1940s and 1960s, an ambulance, and many models of ships.

Next I go to the Kelvin Grove Art Galley and Museum and onto St. Andrews Cathedral. On the way back to where I am staying, I make a stop to buy groceries. Once back, I clean my bike chain very well, so well that it can't be cleaned further.

I head down to the café at the street, the one where I picked up the keys for the place I am staying when I arrived two nights ago. I meet Wendy there, who I briefly met in Tongue at St. Andrew’s Church, the morning when I arrived to the town my ancestors left. She was there for the weekend to climb munros and lives in Glasgow.

Wendy is climbing 70 munros this year. Munro is the term used in Scotland for mountain, with a mountain being 3,000 feet (914 meters) or taller. Yeah, 70 of them! On behalf of the organization she works for, she has been the lead planner and is climbing every one of the 70 as others join, whether that be for just one, or as many as they can do. It is a fundraiser for the organization Christian Aid, which works to eradicate the causes of poverty worldwide. #70munros

I would absolutely love to do all that climbing. But I am loving my cycling journey and would not trade it.

After dinner and a great time at the café, I head up to where I am staying to pack and am to bed at midnight.

Tuesday, June 2, 2015

I wake at 7:00am. I am all clogged up and my throat is sore. I do not need this.

Are you ready for today? Well, that is the question I asked myself.

At 9:08am, it’s raining when I leave, what a farewell.

At 9:36am, my route comes onto National Cycling Route 75 that follows the River Clyde out of town. A few miles later the rain stops.

Just after 10:00am, I arrive into Cambuslang and take a quick break to drink water. The route has been pretty protected and there has mostly been no wind, with some 5-10 mph (8-16 km) at times, but not for long. Since leaving Glasgow, I have cycled 7.7 miles (12.4 km) at a pace of 7.83 mph (12.60 km/h).

I pass through Newton at 10:26am and not too long later I stop to check my route. I am not where I should be! I decide to take a break for second breakfast. I eat a sandwich and half of a medium-sized red velvet cake that I bought yesterday at the grocery store. I need the calories and it was delicious. I am on the way again at 11:00am, having cycled 4.6 miles (7.4 km) at a pace of 8.36 mph (13.46 km/h) since Cambuslang.

Google maps takes me on an (unkind word) detour. First, the route takes me off a perfectly good road to go on coarse, sharp gravel for just 100 yards and then puts me back on the very same road, having me cross traffic twice. I don't think any cyclist would choose that, exposing their self to puncture-worthy terrain and crossing traffic twice. I should have looked at that more closely, but Google Maps is generally great for Seattle cycling. I’m finding I can't trust it as much here! Then second, the route puts me on a dead end trail that has stairs on the side up to somewhere. I am not carrying my bike up three flights of stairs with pannier bags on it. (different unkind word)

The National Cycling Route signs are in conflict with themselves and then in areas they are absolutely missing where there are turns. At one point there is a sign for cyclists to re-join the road from the very large sidewalk. There is a 6" curb along the road with nowhere to go down from the sidewalk to the road. The sidewalk soon meets the onramp for the motorway and this is no place to join the road! The sign was in the worst place possible, it should have been back at the last roundabout, which would have been the safest location to join the road! Clearly it is not cyclists that have put up these signs.

I finally end up on National Cycling Route 74. There are few signs where they are needed, such as at several locations where you have to make a turn. Then once on a long stretch with no turns, there is an excessive amount of signs, sometimes being able to see two signs ahead! (nearly end of complaints)

At 11:57am, I arrive into Hamilton, having cycled 6.2 miles (10.0 km) at a less than exciting pace of 6.53 mph (10.50 km/h) due to all the route finding trouble.

After Hamilton, I leave the National Cycling Route once I come to a stretch of cobblestone. This is just wrong. A quick look on a map and there is clearly a more direct route that doesn’t require dismounting and walking across cobblestone. A fair amount of the National Cycle Routes do not have road bikes in mind. (possible end of complaints)

After 5.5 miles (8.9 km), I arrive into Larkhall, having cycled a pace of 8.68 mph (13.98 km/h). It has been windy, being 10-15 mph (16-24 km) at times. I am already feeling so tired, my cold is not helping, and I have so much more to go today. My pace is discouraging and if it doesn’t pick up, this is going to be a very long day. I take a break at a bus stop, leaning my bike against a nearby lamppost, and sit and eat inside the bus stop. I watch my bike blow over when a gust of wind comes. Second to riding with dirty hands, I hate watching my bike crash over into pavement.

Shortly after leaving, the winds really pick up, consistently being 20 mph (32 km). Wow, looks like I will have a slow pace all day long. At 1:34pm I am in Stonehouse, which my route doesn’t go through, so that is an obvious problem. From my unintended detour, I go down a steep hill and back up another one, that being the quickest way back to being on track.

The winds have picked up even more. The wind turbines are getting after it. I am not.

I am supposed to be on National Cycling Route 74, but haven’t seen a sign in quite a long time, but I know I am on the route I planned. Then all of a sudden there is a sign for the route. Then at the next roundabout, where there generally are always signs indicating which direction to go, there is no sign. Then miles later, I see a cycling trail on the other side of the road, which I assume is where I am supposed to be now, so I cross over to it. Further on there is eventually a sign for the route. I can not believe how inconsistent the signs are!

At 2:15pm, I take off my windbreaker and rain pants, which I have had unzipped down the sides for ventilation. It is quite sunny now. It is still windy but has reduced down to the 10-15 mph (16-24 km) range, and that amount of wind can somehow make me happy at this point. I pass through Aldton at 2:28pm and stop to take some photos. All of the sudden all the cows in the field have come up right by the fence where I am standing!

All these cows walked over to where I was on the other side of the fence.

At 3:24pm, I pass through Redshaw, having cycled 17.8 miles (28.6 km) at a pace of 7.74 mph (12.45 km/h) since Larkhall.

Five minutes after Redshaw, I cross a strip of gravel in the paved cycling path. Air hisses and I brake to a stop as fast as I can. It is the rear tire. The funny, not so funny, thing is that the winds are pretty big right now, easily sustaining 30 mph (48 km/h). But I wasn’t oblivious that the current circumstances could play out at the same time. I was just hoping they wouldn’t. I go to work at changing the tire.

My bike is upside down and leaning against a post. I watch a gust of wind blow it over. I am pissed. After I have removed the tube, I go and lean the bike up against the post again, but at more of an angle so it won’t blow over again. As I am installing the new tube into the tire, the bike blows over again. It probably pisses me off more than it should. I just leave it. No point in setting myself up to watch that again.

After pumping up the new tube, I reinstall the tire. I then clean the rear gear cassette and chain. I am in disbelief at how awful they are from just this morning. Fortunately the wind is not cold, which is actually surprising. At least I have that going for me. The asphalt of the cycling path is noticeably warm, so I sit on it as I eat lunch in the 30 mph (48 km/h) winds. Unfortunately I am out of water, the first time that I have run out of water on this journey. I pack up and leave at 4:26pm, having spent nearly an hour with the flat tire, cleaning, and then eating.

As I move further south, the winds quickly reduce. At 4:46pm, I pass through Abington, having cycled 5.9 miles (9.5 km) at a pace of 14.16 mph (22.79 km/h) since Redshaw.

The rear tire hisses again!! I have only made it 27 minutes since leaving from replacing the last flat. I wasn’t even going on gravel. I am out of extra tubes. I will now have to patch one of the others so I can replace this one. From where the puncture occurred, I walk the bike along the road until I come upon a fence where I can lean the bike. Disgustingly, this ends up being by a dead animal that I did not notice before starting to change the tube. The mode of today tells me I could easily have another flat. So I go ahead and patch another tube so it is ready to go, especially beneficial if I need to change a tube in the rain, which would make applying a patch nearly impossible. After 34 minutes, I leave at 5:27pm.

View from the cycling route after the second flat of the day.

Ten minutes later I come upon Crawford and leave the road to head into town. If I didn’t have so much distance remaining, I would have just pushed through without stopping for water, but I am feeling parched already so I know it is the right decision. There is a small café where I buy some cake and a drink with caffeine, as I figure I will need it. Since Abington, I have only cycled 3.2 miles (5.1 km) but it was at a pace of 11.29 mph (18.18 km/h). I fill up my water bottles and am back on the road at 5:58pm.

Sometimes you have to eat Red Velvet cake for your second breakfast.

Sometimes you have to change a flat tire in 30 mph (48 km/h) winds and watch your upside down bike blow over.

Sometimes you have to put your head down and grind.

For 16.1 miles (25.9 km) I cycle at a pace of 15.09 mph (24.29 km/h) until I pass through Beattock at 7:02pm. It is on. I don’t even think about taking a break.

One really cool thing is that sometimes you can have for yourself both: high cadence and burn. I am the one who set the route for today, now I'm going to finish it.

For the next 14.4 miles (23.2 km) I cycle at a pace of 13.29 mph (21.39 km/h), arriving in Lochmaben at 8:07pm.

My jersey is more soaked in sweat than it has ever been before. And my windbreaker is soaked through too. And the same goes for my bandana. It will normally drip when rung out, but it is simply dripping when I take it off.

Sometimes you bike your last 30 miles (48 km) like it is your first, and take no breaks like you are on the flats without wind, without pannier bags. Sometimes you find you have more to give than you thought. At 81.4 miles (131.0 km), today has been 17% longer than the next longest day, and I cycled the last 30.5 miles (49.1 km) 70% faster than the first 50.9 miles (81.9 km).

Today has been my least favorite day of cycling. Today has been my favorite day of cycling

In Lochmaben I am at Mairi's parents’ house, where we stayed on our drive north. Her mom, Barbara, says it has been the worst May weather she can remember.

After a delicious salmon dinner, Barbara shows me The Northern Times newspaper article I am in from my time in Tongue. I can’t say that everything is exactly accurate and would not have expected to be described as “the most exotic visitor” or as an “American cyclist.”

Photo Gallery – Glasgow to Lochmaben: Cycling Day 16

Daily cycling stats:

Distance: 81.4 miles (131.0 km)

Moving average: 9.85 mph (15.85 km/h). The last 2 hours of the day brought that up!

Wednesday, June 3, 2015

I’m not out of bed until 10:00am. I will be cycling today.

I eat breakfast in the conservatory (sun room). When I go to leave, the rear tire is flat. I cycled over 30 miles (48 km) on the patch and now it hasn’t held over night. I change the tube with the other that is already patched and ready to go. It doesn’t hold either. So I re-patch the other and try again. It holds. Hopefully for all day.

At 2:33pm I leave and head east. I realize you might ask why I am not heading south when I am already leaving so late in the day. Sometimes remembering the past is as important as the plans for today.

Just 3.6 miles (5.8 km) at a pace of 8.64 mph (13.90 km/h) and I arrive at Dryfesdale Cemetery in Lockerbie. Here is the Garden of Remembrance for the Lockerbie Air Disaster that occurred in 1988.

From the cemetery I head east for 4.0 miles (6.4 km/h) at a pace of 9.60 mph (15.45 km/h) until I arrive at Tundergarth Church. Here is the Room of Remembrance for the Lockerbie Air Disaster. In the small building, built separate form the church, there is a book with a page for every person on Pan Am Flight 103 that died after a bomb aboard went off.

United States. United States. United States. As I turn through the pages of the Book of Remembrance there are a total of 189 citizens of the United States that died. A total of 259 passengers and flight crew were aboard the plane heading from London to New York. An additional 11 died in Lockerbie when the plane came down over the town.

In 2007, the wife of a crew member wrote a message on the page for her husband letting him know of the grandchildren they now have.

At 4:21pm I depart the church, heading back west to the center of Lockerbie. I take a left onto road B7076, which is National Cycling Route 74. That was 3.3 miles (5.3 km) at a pace of 8.61 mph (13.85 km/h) since the church. It is 4:44pm. I have made no distance south. I’m going to need to turn it up.

At 5:13pm, I pass through Ecclefechan, having cycled 5.9 miles (9.5 km) at a pace of 12.21 mph (19.65 km/h). I fly through, onward.

I pass through Kirtlebridge at 5:30pm, through Hollee at 5:44pm, and through Rigg at 5:57pm, having cycled 9.3 miles (15.0 km) at a pace of 12.68 mph (20.41 km/h). My route south transitions onto National Cycling Route 7.

The cycling route between Hollee and Rigg.

At 6:05pm, I enter Greta. After waiting at a traffic light, I turn right and give it all I have.

At 6:08pm, I cross over the River Sark on the Sark Bridge. Since departing Saxa Vord in the Shetland Islands, I have cycled 701.6 miles (1,124.4 km) over 82 hours and 3 minutes. I have crossed the whole of Scotland from north to south and completed my goal. Welcome to England!

The last segment from Rigg was 2.7 miles (4.3 km) at a pace of 14.73 mph (23.70 km/h). I’m tired. So I stop, sit down, and eat the second half of a Red Velvet cake.

This last mile was no more special than the one before it. I pedaled that mile for the one before it, and for the one before that, and all the way back for the first mile that started this journey. This last mile was needed just as much as every other mile, otherwise the goal wouldn’t have been met. The same goes for every dollar donated, it is the accumulation that makes progress possible.

My task is complete, but my day is not done. I’m not going to spend the night on the border of Scotland and England.

This day to be continued.

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